It’s incredible what a 30-minute nap can do after a 9+ hour flight. To thwart jetlag, I resist sleep until evening, nudging my body clock back into sync. As the sun began to set, the temperature dipped to a bearable level for a refreshing run. This time, I decided to loop around the famous Lycabettus Hill, renowned for its panoramic views stretching from the Acropolis to the sea. At its pinnacle perches the opulent St. George Lycabettus Lifestyle Hotel—a note to luxury aficionados. Personally, I’m intrigued by the trail leading to the summit. One day, I’ll return to conquer that hill, perhaps indulging in an espresso at St. George Lycabettus before descending.

What I love about running is its efficiency—it’s faster than walking and slower than cycling, the perfect speed to engage meaningfully with the city while shedding the indulgence of last night’s Greek moussaka and one glass too many of Greek wine. During this particular evening run, I found myself extra cautious about my footing. The sidewalks, resembling marble akin to the Parthenon’s walkways (note to future visitors: sturdy shoes are a must around the Parthenon!), proved unexpectedly slippery. As I navigated, I noticed distinctive yellow rubbery grooves running along the middle of the walkways, sparking my curiosity about their purpose. Balancing between the marble and these rubbery yellow lines required careful maneuvering. I later learned that these grooves are there to assist individuals who are blind or have impaired vision—yellow being a highly visible color for those who visually impaired. The textural contrast allows them to navigate using their sense of touch. Imagine that! Travel to learn.

The easy run paces allowed me to appreciate Athena’ architecture. The cityscape is dominated by polikatoikias— concrete condominium blocks with tiered balconies, hastily constructed in the 1950s to provide affordable housing. Their uniformity can confuse runners like me who prefer to navigate the city without GPS and just go with the flow. Well, the flow in this town looks the same in every alley, which led to me getting lost multiple times while running. And of course, the street signs are in Greek, so my chances of remembering the street names were absolutely zero. Despite their seemingly haphazard layout and monotonous appearance, these buildings add to Athena’ charm. Nearly every balcony on the polikatoikias hosts plants, flowers, or trees—an ingenious response to the city’s heat and density.

**A rendering of a typical polikatoikia facade and apartment floor plan.** *Illustrator: Josh Kramer/Bloomberg CityLab*

One thing that truly captivated me, especially from vantage points offering panoramic city views, was the remarkable profusion of rooftops. The design of polikatoikias ensures nearly every apartment possesses its own rooftop—an architectural marvel! Athena embraces a vibrant rooftop culture, particularly in areas like Plaka, Syntagma, and Montesreki near the Acropolis, where hotels, restaurants, and cafes offer stunning vistas.

What’s intriguing is the practical ingenuity at play. Despite the some of the rooftops not boasting the most aesthetically pleasing appearance, there’s a pragmatic brilliance. Given Athena’ near-constant sunshine, many rooftops are adorned with solar panels and water tanks, serving as vital components of solar water heating systems. This harmonious marriage of form and function harnesses the city’s abundant sunlight for everyday use. It’s a testament to Athena’ blend of architectural necessity and environmental consciousness in this sun-kissed metropolis.

Imagine a perfect evening in Athena: up on the rooftops, the city’s culinary theatrics unfold. People savor grilled octopus on a bed of fava beans, Greek feta salad, braised lamb, and libations flowing freely (dinner starts fashionably late in Greece). From these lofty perches, the Acropolis casts its timeless gaze over the scene. Meanwhile, on balconies adorned with vibrant flora, families lounge and puff away (seriously, what’s with Greece and smoking?). Down on the bustling street level, cafes and eateries line the thoroughfare, their walls a canvas for the city’s graffiti (or rather pissed off youth) artists. It seems every corner boasts yet another place to dine.

And amidst this culinary symphony, there I am, pounding the pavement, trying to unravel the enigma of Athena—a city that juxtaposes its gritty charm with an undeniable allure. Suddenly, as I run, a revelation hits me: I am utterly grateful to be experiencing this eclectic urban tapestry. My blissful Athenian evening run is punctuated—frequently—by an unexpected interruption: the pungent aroma of tobacco smoke. Remind me of my time in Switzerland – it seemed everyone was smoking. Is this a European thing? Athenians seem to be smoking everywhere I turn. Apparently, in a 2022 report, it was found that roughly 2.7 million adults (1.4 million men and 1.2 million women, talk about equal rights!) aged 15 and up were tobacco aficionados in Greece. That’s number 54 worldwide and a solid 14th in the WHO European Region. Every country, it seems, has its vice! It dawned on me—I remember growing up we learned in school that Zimbabwe was a big tobacco exporter. And as a kid I always wondered where they exported tobacco to. Well almost 4 decades later I am now getting my answer. Greece might just be propping up Zimbabwe’s economy through nicotine exports! Ah, globalization at its finest. Greece even rolls out the red carpet for smokers (unlike the USA. Get your act together America!), complete with smoker’s lounges at Athena International Airport. There, I witnessed a gaggle of travelers puffing away, indulging in their final clouds before takeoff. What a sight!

Apart from dodging smokers and navigating through the traffic lights, my run in Athena was occasionally halted by a cat or two darting across the road. The city’s abundance of free-roaming felines brought back memories of Seychelles, where stray dogs roamed freely as well. Here in Athena, cats are as ubiquitous as the polikatoikias—those multi-story apartment buildings. They lounge in ancient ruins, roam neighborhoods, prowl parks, lounge on balconies, and even frequent markets. Running through the city requires careful navigation to avoid “running over” these furry Athenian inhabitants. Interestingly, cats hold a special place in Greek culture, revered as symbols of good luck and protectors against evil spirits, which explains their proliferation. For cat enthusiasts, Athena is a paradise! There are even guided tours dedicated to showcasing the hidden nooks and crannies that these feline residents call home. The cat phenomenon isn’t confined to Athena alone; even the Cyclades Islands boast their fair share of these charming creatures.

Polikatoikias | Athens

Athena | Athens

Chasing Goats | Iten