The Love Knot | Borghetto
The Floating Restaurants of Borghetto – on the sul Mincio
If there was one place I returned to again and again during my time in Italy, it was the enchanting village of Borghetto. Nestled along the gentle flow of the Mincio River, this tiny gem seemed to exist in a world untouched by time. Its beauty was breathtaking, yes, but what truly drew me in was the feeling of discovering something rare and timeless.
Borghetto became my sanctuary, my ritual, my inspiration. I started my mornings there with an espresso, the rich aroma mingling with the soft murmur of the river, waking me better than any alarm clock ever could. After my runs, I returned for another espresso, savoring it as I cooled down and watched the village move at its unhurried pace. Lunches were a revelation. The restaurants served pasta that redefined my understanding of Italian cuisine. One dish, in particular, stood out: the Nodo d’Amore, or love knot tortellini. Borghetto even hosts a festival dedicated to this delicacy—a testament to its cultural and culinary significance.
The Tiny Village of Borghetto
These delicate parcels, as romantic in their legend as in their taste, tell a story as old as the village itself. The tale dates back to the 14th century and speaks of forbidden love. Silvia, a nymph of the Mincio River, fell for Malco, a mortal soldier. Their love, instant and consuming, defied the boundaries of their worlds—hers of water and magic, his of war and duty. One fateful evening, under the moonlight, Silvia tied a golden ribbon into a knot, a symbol of their eternal love, and handed it to Malco, promising their bond would remain even if fate tore them apart. Inspired by this gesture, local cooks began crafting tortellini in the shape of a knot, forever binding the legend to the village.
It was this Nodo d’Amore that kept me coming back. On one memorable visit, I asked for a sampler of every variation: ricotta, pumpkin, and richly seasoned meats. Each bite was unforgettable—a symphony of flavors and textures, simple yet impossibly perfect. Dinner in Borghetto was an experience all its own. As the sun set, the village transformed, bathed in a golden glow that reflected on the water. The lights of the Grand Café and the Corte Regia Relais Hotel shimmered on the river’s surface, creating a scene so magical it felt surreal.
The Nightlights
Borghetto, just a 20-minute drive from Sirmione, seemed to hold the Mincio River in its heart. The architecture appeared to float, its buildings spilling over the water’s edge, their reflections shimmering in the still surface below. The village also served as the starting point for one of the most scenic trails I’ve ever run. Following the Mincio River, the path stretched for nearly forty miles, connecting Borghetto to Mantua. Runners and cyclists moved along the trail, framed by wildflowers and the soft, meandering flow of the river.
Corte Regia Relais Hotel
Some of my most memorable runs began here, winding through the village and into the open landscape, where my steps seemed to sync with the river’s gentle rhythm. Afterward, I always returned to Borghetto to rest and indulge. The gelato—offered at two or three artisanal spots—was exceptional, rivaling the best I’d ever tasted. A post-run espresso at the Grand Café, overlooking the river and the historic spa hotel across the way, became a ritual.
Every visit to Borghetto felt like a homecoming. I often imagined staying at the Corte Regia Relais Hotel , indulging in its spa, and spending lazy afternoons soaking in the view from its terrace. For now, though, I was content to return for the tortellini, the runs, the coffee, and that unmistakable feeling of peace. Even as I left, I knew Borghetto would call me back again, its charm as constant as the flow of the Mincio itself.
